1000 Tutorials

Hello Dos friends
This is a simple but most forgotton command to create
files like config.sys and autoexec.bat files, well heres it...
Even if u dont have a dos boot disk u can work ur way
to some extent.
********************************************
At c:\ prompt
type
copy con config.sys
devicehigh=c:\dos\himem.sys
device=c:\dos\setver.exe
devicehigh=c:\dos\emm386.exe ram
dos=high,umb
last drive=z
then press CTRL + z
press enter
Config.sys file will be created.
********************************************
Similarly u can create autoexec.bat
@echo off
prompt=$P$G
path=c:\dos;c:\
lh mouse
lh doskey
Press CTRL + Z
**********************************************

***NOTE*** THIS ONLY WORKS FOR ATI CARDS

First, open your doom3\base folder. Doubleclick on the pak000.pk4 file. In the "window can't open this file .. .bla bla" dialog, go on and associate the file with an app like WinRar. With this file open in WinRar, go to the glprogs directory in the file. In there you'll find the shaders. The interaction.vfp file seems to be the main rendering shader. Altering this shader to output a constant color turns most objects into that constant color, except for stuff like computer screens etc.

So doubleclick the interaction.vfp file to open it (you may have to associate the .vfp extension with a text editor like notepad or wordpad first since we're going to edit the file). Scroll down to the fragment shader. You'll find these rows:

Code:

PARAM subOne = { -1, -1, -1, -1 };
PARAM scaleTwo = { 2, 2, 2, 2 };


Add this right below them:

Code:

PARAM specExp = { 16, 0, 0, 0 };


Now scroll down to this:

Code:

# perform a dependent table read for the specular falloff
TEX R1, specular, texture[6], 2D;


Comment out that line by adding a "#" to it, and add another line that will do the same thing with math instead, so it should look like this:

Code:

# perform a dependent table read for the specular falloff
# TEX R1, specular, texture[6], 2D;
POW R1, specular.x, specExp.x;


Save the file and close your text editor. WinRar will ask if you want to update the file in the archive, select yes. Close WinRar and enjoy about 40% higher performance in Doom3.

Ok I am running Amd Athlon 1800 1.15 GHz 384 ram With a Gforce2
when I installed the game and attempted to play I got a whopping 2 fps to 4 fps to see what your FPS are put this in consol com_showFPS "1" or set com_showFPS "1" in config file
After I change some in game settings like
600x800 and low quality
Advance setting: I have High Quality Special affect checked yes and Enable Bump maps Yes all the rest are checked no.
After I did these things I am getting average of 21 fps to 35 fps and in high action areas they drop to 15 FPS
so this is what I did to my DoomConfig.
seta image_downSizeLimit "512" CHANGED THIS FROM 256
seta image_downSizeBumpLimit "512" CHANGED THIS FROM 256

Here is actual config just make a back up of your config and copy and paste. Try mine if you have an old Graphix card.

// IvL/FblnaU4w6bO89mN9XIzJKwdEz1acOB3LQ6Vj2NWPrRjcMHDUWwpZzE/zePncK8JfwT1h1fHq+5XRCsM=
unbindall
bind "TAB" "_impulse19"
bind "ENTER" "_button2"
bind "ESCAPE" "togglemenu"
bind "/" "_impulse14"
bind "0" "_impulse10"
bind "1" "_impulse0"
bind "2" "_impulse1"
bind "3" "_impulse2"
bind "4" "_impulse3"
bind "5" "_impulse4"
bind "6" "_impulse5"
bind "7" "_impulse6"
bind "8" "_impulse7"
bind "9" "_impulse8"
bind "[" "_impulse15"
bind "\\" "_mlook"
bind "]" "_impulse14"
bind "a" "_moveleft"
bind "c" "_movedown"
bind "d" "_moveright"
bind "f" "_impulse11"
bind "q" "_impulse9"
bind "r" "_impulse13"
bind "t" "clientMessageMode"
bind "y" "clientMessageMode 1"
bind "z" "_zoom"
bind "BACKSPACE" "clientDropWeapon"
bind "PAUSE" "pause"
bind "UPARROW" "_forward"
bind "DOWNARROW" "_back"
bind "LEFTARROW" "_moveLeft"
bind "RIGHTARROW" "_moveRight"
bind "ALT" "_strafe"
bind "CTRL" "_moveDown"
bind "SHIFT" "_forward"
bind "DEL" "_lookdown"
bind "PGDN" "_lookup"
bind "END" "_impulse18"
bind "F1" "_impulse28"
bind "F2" "_impulse29"
bind "F3" "_impulse17"
bind "F5" "savegame quick"
bind "F6" "_impulse20"
bind "F7" "_impulse22"
bind "F9" "loadgame quick"
bind "F12" "screenshot"
bind "KP_LEFTARROW" "_moveUp"
bind "KP_END" "_speed"
bind "KP_INS" "_impulse13"
bind "MOUSE1" "_attack"
bind "MOUSE3" "_zoom"
bind "MWHEELDOWN" "_impulse14"
bind "MWHEELUP" "_impulse15"
seta radiant_entityMode "0"
seta gui_mediumFontLimit "0.60"
seta gui_smallFontLimit "0.30"
seta net_socksPassword ""
seta net_socksUsername ""
seta net_socksPort "1080"
seta net_socksServer ""
seta net_socksEnabled "0"
seta win_ypos "22"
seta win_xpos "3"
seta sys_lang "english"
seta s_numberOfSpeakers "2"
seta s_doorDistanceAdd "150"
seta s_globalFraction "0.8"
seta s_subFraction "0.75"
seta s_playDefaultSound "1"
seta s_volume_dB "0"
seta s_meterTopTime "2000"
seta s_reverse "0"
seta s_spatializationDecay "2"
seta s_maxSoundsPerShader "1"
seta r_debugArrowStep "120"
seta r_debugLineWidth "1"
seta r_debugLineDepthTest "0"
seta r_cgFragmentProfile "best"
seta r_cgVertexProfile "best"
seta r_forceLoadImages "1"
seta r_shadows "0"
seta r_skipBump "0"
seta r_skipSpecular "1"
seta r_skipNewAmbient "0"
seta r_renderer "best"
seta r_brightness "1.595238"
seta r_gamma "1.3"
seta r_swapInterval "0"
seta r_useIndexBuffers "0"
seta r_customHeight "486"
seta r_customWidth "720"
seta r_fullscreen "1"
seta r_mode "4"
seta r_multiSamples "0"
seta image_downSizeLimit "512"
seta image_ignoreHighQuality "1"
seta image_downSizeBumpLimit "512"
seta image_downSizeSpecularLimit "64"
seta image_downSizeBump "1"
seta image_downSizeSpecular "1"
seta image_useCache "1"
seta image_cacheMegs "128"
seta image_cacheMinK "10240"
seta image_usePrecompressedTextures "1"
seta image_useNormalCompression "1"
seta image_useAllFormats "1"
seta image_useCompression "1"
seta image_roundDown "1"
seta image_forceDownSize "0"
seta image_downSize "1"
seta image_lodbias "0"
seta image_anisotropy "0"
seta image_filter "GL_LINEAR_MIPMAP_LINEAR"
seta gui_filter_gameType "0"
seta gui_filter_players "0"
seta gui_filter_password "0"
seta net_master4 ""
seta net_master3 ""
seta net_master2 ""
seta net_master1 ""
seta net_clientMaxRate "16000"
seta net_serverMaxClientRate "16000"
seta m_strafeSmooth "4"
seta m_smooth "1"
seta m_strafeScale "6.25"
seta m_yaw "0.022"
seta m_pitch "0.022"
seta sensitivity "5"
seta in_alwaysRun "0"
seta in_freeLook "1"
seta in_anglespeedkey "1.5"
seta in_pitchspeed "140"
seta in_yawspeed "140"
seta gui_configServerRate "0"
seta com_guid ""
seta com_showFPS "1"
seta com_purgeAll "1"
seta com_machineSpec "0"
seta g_decals "0"
seta g_projectileLights "0"
seta g_doubleVision "0"
seta g_muzzleFlash "0"
seta mod_validSkins "skins/characters/player/marine_mp;skins/characters/player/marine_mp_green;skins/characters/player/marine_mp_blue;skins/characters/player/marine_mp_red;skins/characters/player/marine_mp_yellow"
seta g_mapCycle "mapcycle"
seta g_voteFlags "0"
seta g_gameReviewPause "10"
seta g_countDown "10"
seta g_password ""
seta g_showBrass "1"
seta g_showProjectilePct "0"
seta g_showHud "1"
seta g_showPlayerShadow "0"
seta g_showcamerainfo "0"
seta g_healthTakeLimit "25"
seta g_healthTakeAmt "5"
seta g_healthTakeTime "5"
seta g_useDynamicProtection "1"
seta g_armorProtectionMP "0.6"
seta g_armorProtection "0.3"
seta g_damageScale "1"
seta g_nightmare "0"
seta g_bloodEffects "1"
seta ui_showGun "1"
seta ui_autoReload "1"
seta ui_autoSwitch "1"
seta ui_team "Blue"
seta ui_skin "skins/characters/player/marine_mp"
seta ui_name "Player"
seta si_spectators "1"
seta si_usePass "0"
seta si_warmup "0"
seta si_teamDamage "0"
seta si_timeLimit "10"
seta si_fragLimit "10"
seta si_maxPlayers "4"
seta si_map "game/mp/d3dm1"
seta si_gameType "singleplayer"
seta si_name "DOOM Server"
seta g_spectatorChat "0"

After I that game runs at bearable frame rate and I must say this is a beautful game! Hope this helps some one Sorry if I put this post in wrong spot did not see game support. Thank you for the quick reply of misplacement

http://www.learning-maya.com/tutorials.php


interesting tuts for Maya 6

First off, I've been doing this for a long time now. I still listen to a lot of the bands I've found by doing this. It's really simple, but it works like a charm. I ALWAYS find cool new stuff -- sometimes even bands that have been around 10 years that I never heard of.

The things you need:
- (Optional) A file sharing program (I use limewire)
- A browser. :]

1.) Pick one of your favorite bands.
2.) Go to amazon.com or cdnow.com (same thing)
3.) Look up that band's name
4.) Scroll down until you see "Customers who bought this title also bought:"
5.) Browse through the artists you've never heard of in that list.
6.) Check out one of their albums, preferably the one with highest rating (in stars)
7.) Either listen to the samples on amazon or download a song by them with your filesharing app.

If you like what you hear, repeat steps 3-7 using the new band's name.

You'll find TONS of new music you never thought existed.

It's a really simple way to find stuff, and I'm sure lots of you probably already do this. But for those who don't -- you'll thank me later. It works wonders. :)

i was recently playing games and this nasty windos logo key keep annoying me , cause i often accidently clicked it , and i start to search a solution to solve my problem, and found the following article in microsfot website, and it did work, hope this helps, thanks!

CODE
http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=181348


or in other articles, u can copy the following messages into ur notepad and save as *.reg, and use it..

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Keyboard Layout]
"Scancode Map"=hex:00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,5b,e0,00,00,5c,e0,\
00,00,00,00

To disable the stupid feature in WinXP which tries to send a report to microsoft every time a program crashes you will have to do this:

*************************************************************************

Open Control Panel
Click on Preformance and Maintenance.
Click on System.
Then click on the Advanced tab
Click on the error reporting button on the bottom of the windows.
Select Disable error reporting.
Click OK
Click OK

*************************************************************************

On an NTFS partition, Disk Cleanup can compress old files
to save space. But calculating the savings and performing
the compression often take a long time, and on some systems,
Disk Cleanup hangs during the process. If that happens, or if
you don't care to wait, use this Registry tweak to disable the
compression: Delete the key
HKEY_ LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\ CurrentVersion\Explorer\VolumeCaches\Compress Old Files.

DirectX explained

Ever wondered just what that enigmatic name means?

Gaming and multimedia applications are some of the most satisfying programs you can get for your PC, but getting them to run properly isn’t always as easy as it could be. First, the PC architecture was never designed as a gaming platform. Second, the wide-ranging nature of the PC means that one person’s machine can be different from another. While games consoles all contain the same hardware, PCs don’t: the massive range of difference can make gaming a headache.


To alleviate as much of the pain as possible, Microsoft needed to introduce a common standard which all games and multimedia applications could follow – a common interface between the OS and whatever hardware is installed in the PC, if you like. This common interface is DirectX, something which can be the source of much confusion.

DirectX is an interface designed to make certain programming tasks much easier, for both the game developer and the rest of us who just want to sit down and play the latest blockbuster. Before we can explain what DirectX is and how it works though, we need a little history lesson.

DirectX history
Any game needs to perform certain tasks again and again. It needs to watch for your input from mouse, joystick or keyboard, and it needs to be able to display screen images and play sounds or music. That’s pretty much any game at the most simplistic level.

Imagine how incredibly complex this was for programmers developing on the early pre-Windows PC architecture, then. Each programmer needed to develop their own way of reading the keyboard or detecting whether a joystick was even attached, let alone being used to play the game. Specific routines were needed even to display the simplest of images on the screen or play a simple sound.

Essentially, the game programmers were talking directly to your PC’s hardware at a fundamental level. When Microsoft introduced Windows, it was imperative for the stability and success of the PC platform that things were made easier for both the developer and the player. After all, who would bother writing games for a machine when they had to reinvent the wheel every time they began work on a new game? Microsoft’s idea was simple: stop programmers talking directly to the hardware, and build a common toolkit which they could use instead. DirectX was born.

How it works
At the most basic level, DirectX is an interface between the hardware in your PC and Windows itself, part of the Windows API or Application Programming Interface. Let’s look at a practical example. When a game developer wants to play a sound file, it’s simply a case of using the correct library function. When the game runs, this calls the DirectX API, which in turn plays the sound file. The developer doesn’t need to know what type of sound card he’s dealing with, what it’s capable of, or how to talk to it. Microsoft has provided DirectX, and the sound card manufacturer has provided a DirectX-capable driver. He asks for the sound to be played, and it is – whichever machine it runs on.

From our point of view as gamers, DirectX also makes things incredibly easy – at least in theory. You install a new sound card in place of your old one, and it comes with a DirectX driver. Next time you play your favourite game you can still hear sounds and music, and you haven’t had to make any complex configuration changes.

Originally, DirectX began life as a simple toolkit: early hardware was limited and only the most basic graphical functions were required. As hardware and software has evolved in complexity, so has DirectX. It’s now much more than a graphical toolkit, and the term has come to encompass a massive selection of routines which deal with all sorts of hardware communication. For example, the DirectInput routines can deal with all sorts of input devices, from simple two-button mice to complex flight joysticks. Other parts include DirectSound for audio devices and DirectPlay provides a toolkit for online or multiplayer gaming.

DirectX versions
The current version of DirectX at time of writing is DirectX 9.0. This runs on all versions of Windows from Windows 98 up to and including Windows Server 2003 along with every revision in between. It doesn’t run on Windows 95 though: if you have a machine with Windows 95 installed, you’re stuck with the older and less capable 8.0a. Windows NT 4 also requires a specific version – in this case, it’s DirectX 3.0a.

With so many versions of DirectX available over the years, it becomes difficult to keep track of which version you need. In all but the most rare cases, all versions of DirectX are backwardly compatible – games which say they require DirectX 7 will happily run with more recent versions, but not with older copies. Many current titles explicitly state that they require DirectX 9, and won’t run without the latest version installed. This is because they make use of new features introduced with this version, although it has been known for lazy developers to specify the very latest version as a requirement when the game in question doesn’t use any of the new enhancements. Generally speaking though, if a title is version locked like this, you will need to upgrade before you can play. Improvements to the core DirectX code mean you may even see improvements in many titles when you upgrade to the latest build of DirectX. Downloading and installing DirectX need not be complex, either.

Upgrading DirectX
All available versions of Windows come with DirectX in one form or another as a core system component which cannot be removed, so you should always have at least a basic implementation of the system installed on your PC. However, many new games require the very latest version before they work properly, or even at all.

Generally, the best place to install the latest version of DirectX from is the dedicated section of the Microsoft Web site, which is found at www.microsoft.com/windows/directx. As we went to press, the most recent build available for general download was DirectX 9.0b. You can download either a simple installer which will in turn download the components your system requires as it installs, or download the complete distribution package in one go for later offline installation.

Another good source for DirectX is games themselves. If a game requires a specific version, it’ll be on the installation CD and may even be installed automatically by the game’s installer itself. You won’t find it on magazine cover discs though, thanks to Microsoft’s licensing terms.

Diagnosing problems

Diagnosing problems with a DirectX installation can be problematic, especially if you don’t know which one of the many components is causing your newly purchased game to fall over. Thankfully, Microsoft provides a useful utility called the DirectX Diagnostic Tool, although this isn’t made obvious. You won’t find this tool in the Start Menu with any version of Windows, and each tends to install it in a different place.

The easiest way to use it is to open the Start Menu’s Run dialog, type in dxdiag and then click OK. When the application first loads, it takes a few seconds to interrogate your DirectX installation and find any problems. First, the DirectX Files tab displays version information on each one of the files your installation uses. The Notes section at the bottom is worth checking, as missing or corrupted files will be flagged here.

The tabs marked Display, Sound, Music, Input and Network all relate to specific areas of DirectX, and all but the Input tab provide tools to test the correct functioning on your hardware. Finally, the More Help tab provides a useful way to start the DirectX Troubleshooter, Microsoft’s simple linear problem solving tool for many common DirectX issues.

Direct Link To Any Page You Want To In Hotmail

This tutorial is for people that don't know how to direct link to .php pages on the web. If you are on a private computer, and don't mind auto-logging in, you will be able to access your folders much faster than going straight to hotmail.com

You will need a bit of information. Log into the hotmail main page. You will see a web address similar to the following:

http://by211.bay211.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/hmhome?fti=yes&curmbox=00000000%2d0000...


It won't be exactly the same but it will be similar.

It's time to shorten this up. The only bit of information you really need is the direct web address to the server that contains your particular account. In the above example, you would just need:

CODE
http://by211.bay211.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/


Just copy this section from your particular server addy in your browser's address bar.

Now that the explanation is over, these are the commands you can append to the above example to reach specific pages.

'hmhome' - MSN Hotmail - Today
'HoTMaiL' - Inbox
'HoTMaiL?&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000005' - Junk E-Mail
'HoTMaiL?&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000004' - Drafts
'HoTMaiL?&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000003' - Sent Messages
'HoTMaiL?&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000002' - Trash Can
'compose' - Compose Message
'addresses' - Address Book
'options' - Options, Duh
'options?section=mail' - Mail Options
'options?section=personal' - Personal Details
'protect?screen=filter' - Junkmail Filter
'options?section=contacts' - Contact Options

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Remember, you just need to place these commands directly after 'http://.../cgi-bin/' without spaces.

If you have never tried this before, it works on many websites. So, if you don't like navigating websites, and would rather do that through your web-browser, go ahead and do it.

Digital Photo ID Cards
By Frank White

Q: What do you need to make a Digital Photo ID Card?
A: Making digital photo ID cards typically requires several components all working together.
1. You need a computer on which you run the photo ID badge software. You cannot print the cards on a PVC card printer without a computer – the printer can't perform anything without the computer.
2. You need software and it must:
a) Offer a database to store the names and personal information of the people for whom you want to issue badges.
b) Provide a way to integrate image capture with the database – not only import images, but associate the images with specific database records.
c) Provide a way to design and edit badges.
d) Send badges from the computer to a card printer. Badging software, like other business applications, comes in a variety of "flavors" – from low-end to high-end. That is, in addition to performing the simple processes described above, the application may come with many other "features" which enhance the usability and functionality of the application. Features might include requiring a secure log-on, allowing the user to add, delete, or edit database fields and create or print reports, etc.
3. You need a PVC card printer to print the badges. PVC (polyvinylchloride) is the same material that your white plastic household plumbing pipes are made out of. It is porous enough to allow colored inks to be absorbed into the surface of the plastic using a "dye sublimation" process, yet durable enough to last years. The PVC printer allows you to print a photo ID badge directly to a plastic card. The non-digital process required cutting and pasting an instant photo and inserting it into a laminated pouch which must then be sealed by sending it through a heat laminator.
4. You need a digital camera or other "input" device. Your PC and software must allow you to:
a) Plug in a camera.
b) Capture the image through the software. More versatile systems will allow you to capture portraits through video cameras, digital cameras, scanners, or by importing from a file –an "import from file" feature allows someone to send a picture to you by email as a file attachment, which you can then import into the database.
5. Additional hardware may be required, such as a video capture board for certain video cameras, tape backup device, UPS (uninterrupted power supply), etc. Video capture boards, for example, are installed in a PCI or AGP expansion slot on your PC's motherboard. The camera usually plugs directly into these boards. Special lighting may need to be set up where you take portrait pictures. If you want to incorporate fingerprints and signatures in your database and badge, then additional image capture devices will be required for them.
6. Consumables are also part of the package. You will need blank or pre-printed PVC cards and printer ribbons (usually in rolls which print from 250-350 cards per).

Digital FAQ Website

>http://www.digitalfaq.com/

Some of the topics covered

Capture:
VIDEO CAPTURE GUIDES
- Understanding your source
- Deciding on a capture resolution
- AVI vs. MPEG capture
- Interlaced vs. De-interlaced
- Playback hardware suggestions
- Capturing AVI with an ATI card
- Capturing AVI with others cards
- Capturing MPEG with an ATI card
- Capturing MPEG with other cards
- Mac capturing with Final Cut Pro
- PC capturing with Adobe Premiere
- DV capturing FAQ and myths
- How to avoid dropped frames
- How to do video the digitalFAQ way

Convert and Edit:
CONVERTING TO DVD MPEG
- Understanding your source
- Convert using ProCoder
- Convert using TMPGEnc Plus
- Convert VCD to DVD
VIDEO EDITING GUIDES
- Removing commercials in MPEG
- Editing DVD recorder discs on PC
- Editing a finished DVD
- Adobe Premiere guides by WVP

Restore:
VIDEO RESTORATION
- Introduction to restoring video
- TMPGEnc video filters
- ProCoder video filters
- VirtualDub and AVIsynth filters
- ATI VideoSoap
- digitalFAQ.com restoration services
AUDIO RESTORATION
- Introduction to restoring audio
- SoundForge Audio Filters
- DartPro Audio Filters

Author and Burn:
DVD AUTHORING FAQ
- Introduction and authoring FAQ
- Mixing Sources: Multiple VTS
- DVD Audio: AC3 vs. PCM vs. MP2
DVD AUTHORING & BURNING
- Author DVD: Sonic DVDit!
- Author DVD: Ulead DVD Workshop
- Author DVD: TMPGEnc DVD Author
- Author DVD: DVD Studio Pro
- Author DVD: Adobe Encore by WVP
- Burn DVD files: Nero
- Burn VCD-SVCD-CVD: Nero
- Burn VCD-SVCD-CVD: VCD Easy
DVD COPYING
- DVD9: Decrypter/DVD2one/Nero
- DVD9: Decrypter/DVDShrink
- DVD5: Decrypter
- Copy to VCD/SVCD/DVD by Sefy

Other Video Info:
VIDEO BUYER'S GUIDE
- Video equipment buying advice
- Newbie guide to DVD creation
- DVD recorder reviews and tips
- Video hardware reviews
- Video software reviews
- Sales and deals of the week
DVD MEDIA GUIDES
- Blank media and quality FAQ
- Where to buy good media
- DVD-R vs. DVD+R vs. DVD-RAM
DVD STORAGE and CASES
- Making DVD cases in Photoshop
- Where to buy DVD storage supplies
HARDWARE TROUBLESHOOTING
- DVD player problems
- DVD burner problems
- ATI video card installation

Digital Camera Guide

So, it's time for a digital camera huh? Well, buying one can be more than a little difficult. What types of features should you look for? Well, this guide will tell you that plus get you a little more familiar with what these cameras are capable of.

Megapixels
When it comes to megapixels, the more the better. I recommend a minimum of 2, but 3 or 4 is great. We did a test to see if a camera with 2.3 megapixels (actually 1.92 - 1600 x 1200) could produce a good quality 8x10.

Turns out it can, if you have the right paper and printer. We used HP Premium Plus photo paper with an HP 970 series printer and made a fantastic 8 x 10. Remember, I was a professional photographer before I got into computing, so I know a good print when I see it :-)

The resolution at 8x10 (we had to crop in to make the picture proportional to 8x10) was only 150 DPI. Most printers would not make a real good 8x10 at that resolution, but this one did. So, if you want to be sure you can get good 8 x 10s, you may want to go with a 3 megapixel camera or better (that gives you around 200 DPI at 8x10 size, still not quite the optimum 300 DPI, but it looks good with the right printer).


Optical vs Digital Zoom
You've probably noticed that most digital cameras have both a specification for digital and optical zoom. Pay the most attention to the optical zoom.

The optical zoom magnifies (zooms in) using glass. The digital zoom basically crops out the edge of the picture to make the subject appear closer, causing you to lose resolution or to get an interpolated resolution (i.e. the camera adds pixels). Neither of which help image quality.

Finally, make sure you get enough (optical) zoom. A 2x zoom isn't going to do much for you. A 3x is the average you'll find in most digital cameras will probably be good for most uses. More on lenses later.


Connection
How does the camera connect to your computer? If you have a USB port in your computer, you'll want a camera that can connect via USB as opposed to a slow serial connection.

On the other hand, if your computer doesn't have a USB port, is there a serial connector available for the camera you're looking at? If so, is it a special order and how long does it take to get it?


Storage
What does the camera use to store images with? If it uses a memory stick, make sure you consider buying additional sticks when you get your camera. A typical 8 meg memory stick that comes with a 2 megapixel camera only holds 5 or 6 images at the camera's best quality.

Some cameras use a 3.5 inch disk for storage. Be careful of these!
Although it may sound like a good idea, a 3 megapixel camera at high resolution produces a 1 meg file (compressed!). That's only 1 picture per disk.


Here's a few more things to look out for when trying to make your digital camera purchase.

Picture Formats
When you're trying to decide on which digital camera to get, check and see how many different picture formats it supports.

You want something that can produce both uncompressed (usually TIFF) and compressed (usually JPEG) images. I personally use the high quality JPEG setting on my camera for most of my shooting. TIFFs are just too big and the difference in quality is not ascertainable by mere mortals.

You also want to be able to shoot at a lower resolution than the camera's maximum. That way, If you're running short on memory, you can squeeze a few more shots on your memory stick.


Auxiliary Lens / Flash
This was a biggie for me. While a 3x zoom may work for the "average" user, I needed something that allowed me to do some wide angle work as well as have a good telephoto lens.

So, the camera I purchased a few months back was a Nikon Coolpix 990 (note that this isn't the only camera that can accept lenses). It has auxiliary lenses that screw into the filter ring on the front of the lens. I now have an ultra-wide fisheye lens plus a nice telephoto.

In addition to lenses, I wanted a good flash. The flash that is built into most of these cameras gives you a top range of 15-20 feet - at best. I wanted a camera that could take a powerful auxiliary flash (again, the Nikon isn't the only camera that fits this requirement, but I liked it better than the rest). If you need more reach than the small built in flash can deliver, then make sure you can attach an external flash to any camera you consider.

As an added bonus, if you get a camera that can take an external flash, you can place that flash on a bracket and eliminate red-eye.


Flash Distance
Speaking of flashes, make sure you check the distance the built in flash is good for. You don't want a camera with a wimpy flash that only travels a few feet (well, unless you can get an external flash for it as described above).


Battery Type
This may not sound important, but it is. Anyone who owns a digital camera can tell you they eat batteries the way a sumo wrestler eats at a buffet.

Make sure the camera can run on regular (or rechargeable) "AA" type batteries. You don't want a camera that eats through expensive lithium batteries every 10 shots or so.

One thing to remember about digital cameras, they do eat through batteries. I recommend getting some Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable for it. I have some for mine and they have saved me a fortune.


Final Notes
Choosing a digital camera isn't easy. There's a huge selection out there and only you can determine which features you need.

For instance, if you shoot wildlife photos, a small 3x zoom probably isn't going to cut it (unless you can attach auxiliary lenses to it). If you shoot lots of close-ups, make sure the camera has some sort of macro capability. If you shoot big group photos indoors, an external flash may be necessary.

My advice is to make a list of things you want to be able to do with the camera then go to somewhere that can help you make a good purchase decision.

Finally, buy the BEST camera you can possibly afford. Or wait until the price drops on one with the type of features you want.

This tip requires a change to the Windows Registry. Please see the MSFN Guide "Backup Your Registry" if you are new to the Windows Registry.

Windows Media Player (WMP) is a built-in application that allows you to play multimedia files. Like many other applications, WMP remembers the most recently played files and displays them in the Recent File List under the File menu. This feature is useful if you regularly play certain files, but you may want to clear the list if you share the computer and a user account or create archives and CDs.

There are two ways you can clear the list:

I. The ClearMRU.exe Utility is available for free in the Windows Media Player Bonus Pack from Microsoft, but Microsoft does not support this tool.

II. You can also manually delete the list through the Windows Registry:

1. Start the Windows Registry Editor, regedit.exe, by typing regedit in the Windows Run Command Line.

2. Go to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\MediaPlayer\Player\RecentFileList.

3. Delete the RecentFileList subkey.

4. If you've also streamed content from the Internet, you can delete the RecentURLList subkey.

5. Exit the Registry Editor.

6. Restart the computer.

To keep certain files in the list, don't delete the entire key. Deleting individual entries within the key will get rid of the files that you no longer want in the Recent File List.

Delete An "undeletable" File

Open a Command Prompt window and leave it open.
Close all open programs.
Click Start, Run and enter TASKMGR.EXE
Go to the Processes tab and End Process on Explorer.exe.
Leave Task Manager open.
Go back to the Command Prompt window and change to the directory the AVI (or other undeletable file) is located in.
At the command prompt type DEL where is the file you wish to delete.
Go back to Task Manager, click File, New Task and enter EXPLORER.EXE to restart the GUI shell.
Close Task Manager.


Or you can try this

Open Notepad.exe

Click File>Save As..>

locate the folder where ur undeletable file is

Choose 'All files' from the file type box

click once on the file u wanna delete so its name appears in the 'filename' box

put a " at the start and end of the filename
(the filename should have the extension of the undeletable file so it will overwrite it)

click save,

It should ask u to overwrite the existing file, choose yes and u can delete it as normal


Here's a manual way of doing it. I'll take this off once you put into your first post zain.

1. Start
2. Run
3. Type: command
4. To move into a directory type: cd c:\*** (The stars stand for your folder)
5. If you cannot access the folder because it has spaces for example Program Files or Kazaa Lite folder you have to do the following. instead of typing in the full folder name only take the first 6 letters then put a ~ and then 1 without spaces. Example: cd c:\progra~1\kazaal~1
6. Once your in the folder the non-deletable file it in type in dir - a list will come up with everything inside.
7. Now to delete the file type in del ***.bmp, txt, jpg, avi, etc... And if the file name has spaces you would use the special 1st 6 letters followed by a ~ and a 1 rule. Example: if your file name was bad file.bmp you would type once in the specific folder thorugh command, del badfil~1.bmp and your file should be gone. Make sure to type in the correct extension.

ebug: Learn how to crack windows, programs ect manually




Debug is a program that comes with modern versions of DOS (I do not know when I started shipping out with DOS). Anyway, all Windows users should have it already.

It's a great tool for debuging programs, unassembling and cracking, and reading "hidden" memory areas like the boot sector, and much more.

The following was copied from an assembly tutorial who's author we cannot credit, because we have no idea who he is.

Get into DOS and type "debug", you will get a prompt like this:
-

now type "?", you should get the following response:
assemble A [address]
compare C range address
dump D [range]
enter E address [list]
fill F range list
go G [=address] [addresses]
hex H value1 value2
input I port
load L [address] [drive] [firstsector] [number]
move M range address
name N [pathname] [arglist]
output O port byte
proceed P [=address] [number]
quit Q
register R [register]
search S range list
trace T [=address] [value]
unassemble U [range]
write W [address] [drive] [firstsector] [number]
allocate expanded memory XA [#pages]
deallocate expanded memory XD [handle]
map expanded memory pages XM [Lpage] [Ppage] [handle]
display expanded memory status XS

Lets go through each of these commands:
Assemble:

-a
107A:0100

At this point you can start assembling some programs, just like using a assembler. However the debug assembler is very limited as you will probably notice. Lets try to enter a simple program:

-a
107A:0100 MOV AH,02
107A:0102 MOV DL,41
107A:0104 INT 21
107A:0106 INT 20
-g
A

Program terminated normally

That's the same program we did at the end of the previous chapter. Notice how you run the program you just entered with "g", and also notice how the set-up part is not there? That's because debug is just too limited to support that.
Another thing you can do with assemble is specify the address at which you want to start, by default this is 0100 since that's where all .COM files start.
Compare:

Compare takes 2 block of memory and displays them side by side, byte for byte. Lets do an example. Quite out of debug if you haven't already using "q". Now type "debug c:\command.com"

-c 0100 l 8 0200
10A3:0100 7A 06 10A3:0200

This command compared offset 0100 with 0200 for a length of 8 bytes. Debug responded with the location that was DIFFERENT. If 2 locations were the same, debug would just omit them, if all are the same debug would simply return to the prompt without any response.
Dump:

Dump will dump a specified memory segment. To test it, code that assembly program again:

C:\>debug
-a
107A:0100 MOV AH,02
107A:0102 MOV DL,41
107A:0104 INT 21
107A:0106 INT 20
-d 0100 l 8
107A:0100 B4 02 B2 41 CD 21 CD 20
...A.!.

The "B4 02 B2 41 CD 21 CD 20" is the program you just made in machine language.

B4 02 = MOV AH,02
B2 41 = MOV DL,41
CD 21 = INT 21
CD 20 = INT 20

The "...A.!." part is your program in ASCII. The "." represent non-printable characters. Notice the A in there.
Enter:

This is one of the hard commands. With it you can enter/change certain memory areas. Lets change our program so that it prints a B instead of an A.
-e 0103 <-- edit program at segment 0103
107A:0103 41.42 <-- change 41 to 42
-g
B

Program terminated normally
-
Wasn't that amazing?
Fill:

This command is fairly useless, but who knows....
It fills the specified amount of memory with the specified data. Lets for example clear out all memory from segment 0100 to 0108, which happens to be our program.
-f 0100 l 8 0 <-- file offset 0100 for a length of 8 bytes with 0
-d 0100 l 8 <-- verify that it worked
107A:0100 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 .......
Yep, it worked.
Go:

So far we used go (g) to start the program we just created. But Go can be used for much more. For example, lets say we want to execute a program at 107B:0100:
-r CS <-- set the CS register to point to 107B
CS 107A
:107B
-g =100

You can also set breakpoints.
-a <-- enter our original program so we have something
107A:0100 MOV AH,02 to work with
107A:0102 MOV DL,41
107A:0104 INT 21
107A:0106 INT 20
-g 102 <-- set up a break point at 107A:0102

At this point the program will stop, display all registers and the current instruction.
Hex:

This can be very useful. It subtracts and adds two hexadecimal values:
-h 2 1
0003 0001 <-- 2h + 1+ = 3h and 2h - 1h = 1h

This is very useful for calculating a programs length, as you will see later.
Input:

This is one of the more advanced commands, and I decided not to talk about it too much for now. It will read a byte of data from any of your computers I/O ports (keyboard, mouse, printer, etc).

-i 3FD
60
-

Your data may be different.
In case you want to know, 3FD is Com port 1, also known as First Asynchronous Adapter.
Load:

This command has 2 formats. It can be used to load the filename specified with the name command (n), or it can load a specific sector.

-n c:\command.com
-l

This will load command.com into debug. When a valid program is loaded all registers will be set up and ready to execute the program.
The other method is a bit more complicated, but potential also more usefull. The syntax is

L